If you abandon the rubber tree (Ficus Elastica) alone, it might reach a height of about 100 feet, that is not exactly optimal for a house plant. Because of this, rubber plants are pruned to keep a more manageable size and shape. Since they’re evergreen trees, the best time for pruning is in the in the fall when they go dormant.
Snip off additional shoots of the rubber plant at the ground level of the grass. You want to maintain one strong shoot to come up with a healthful plant. Choose the greatest trunk stem to remove and keep all others.
Train the tree and also maintain shape by cutting branches off that are growing down. Snip them back to inside 1/2 inch of where they intersect with a different branch to avoid damaging the other limb.
Select and remove branches to thin the plant, and then allow light and air in. Pick three divisions evenly spaced around the tree and then cut one third of the way back, only in front of a leaf node, in order to bring light to the center of the tree. If the rubber plant is dense back to this point, then eliminate the three divisions completely by cutting them away 1/2 inch from the main stem.
Preserve the total form of the rubber plant by cutting divisions back to be with other individuals. Snip the comes in a 45-degree angle in front of a leaf node.
The carambola tree (Averrhoa carambola L.), most commonly known as the star fruit tree, which is a medium-growing evergreen that is capable of reaching 25 feet wide by 33 feet tall. Hardy into U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, the carambola tree creates ovate, star-shaped edible fruit which has translucent yellowish skin and grows up to 6 inches long. The carambola tree is principally created from grafted rootstock. Grafting is performed when a professional takes a youthful division from a mature tree and adds it into the rootstock of another plant. Grafted carambola trees can be purchased locally at select garden center retailers and could be grown with great results, if special care is given.
Dig a hole with a scoop twice as wide but no deeper than the rootball of the carambola tree. Set the tree in the hole and backfill around the rootball with a mixture of 50 percent indigenous dirt and 50 percent organic compost. Pick a place that is sheltered from the end, receives full sun exposure and also has well-draining dirt.
Water that the carambola tree from spring through fall using a watering hose that is put on a slow drip. Water to a depth of at least 12 inches for up to three years following transplant when mud isn’t adequate. Permit the soil to dry out between watering, as carambola trees don’t like constantly wet roots.
Apply a 4- to 6-inch layer of organic mulch around the base of this carambola tree, 8 inches from the trunk into the outer edge of the canopy. Organic mulch can help to retain moisture, reduce weeds and prevent mechanical damage to the trunk from mowing.
Fertilize the carambola tree once per month, spring through fall by sprinkling 1/4 pounds of 6-2-6-3 granular fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and magnesium round the base of this tree, from the trunk into the outer edge of the canopy.
Eliminate the tips of new shoots on the opposite branches with pruning shears by cutting 1/4-inch above the leaf node at a 45-degree angle, then one or two years following transplant to promote branching. Do not cut on the central leader. Remove any dead or broken branches with pruning shears by cutting the branch flush with the trunk or lateral branch.
Fruit trees include value to landscaping with their showy blossoms and edible fruit. However, many species are sensitive to freeze and need extra services to survive the winter. Tropical and subtropical species, such as osteoporosis and lemons, require more services to live the winter under U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 9b, where they will be subject to moderate or light frost. Preparing sensitive fruit trees to get frost and saving them after a freeze happens will help keep their longterm health and productivity, while saving the cost and labor for replacing badly damaged trees.
Monitor the weather forecast throughout the autumn and winter months to gain advance warning of moderate to severe frosts. Educate your fruit trees to get freezing conditions at least 2 days in front of a frost is forecast.
Wrap the trunks of sensitive fruit trees in insulating materials such as cardboard or palm fronds. Cover the entire trunk from ground level up to the smallest set of branches. Affix the insulation with duct tape or twine. Cover the insulation with a layer of plastic sheeting during rainy weather.
Weed across the base of the fruit tree, because bare dirt will radiate more heat and keep the tree from icy. Remove all the vegetation in a 10-foot radius across the trunk. Break up the top 4 inches of soil with a hoe or cultivating fork so that it will soak up more moisture and hold heat.
Water across the base of the fruit tree till the soil is quite moist in the top five inches. Keep the top couple inches of soil moist during very cold weather; it will retain more solar heat energy, which it will release during the night once the temperature falls.
Drape string lights across the canopy of the fruit tree if a hard frost is forecast. Use waterproof exterior lights and then run them with an extension cord that is approved for exterior use. Turn on the lights before dusk and turn them off at sunrise or use an automated timer.
Remove the insulating layers and string lights after the freezing weather has passed. Inspect the fruit tree for signs of damage such as limp, blanched leaves or drooping branches. Do not attempt treatment or pruning yet.
Monitor the tree to get at least 2 months to find out if it will revive on its own before attempting treatment. Watch for dropped leaves, which is actually a positive sign indicating the twigs and branches are still alive.
Prune off frost-damaged branches and twigs where the limp, damaged leaves still cling. Snip off the naturally broken branches and twigs at the base utilizing sturdy jump shears. Wash and disinfect the jump shears before utilizing them to reduce the likelihood of infection.
Whitewash the trunks of badly damaged fruit trees to symbolize the sunlight and protect against sunburn. Mix equal parts white latex paint and water in a bucket. Brush the dilute paint alternative on the trunk from ground level to the bottom branches. Employ multiple coats, if necessary.
Decrease watering while the fruit tree is recovering from frost damage, as it’ll have fewer leaves and need less moisture. Irrigate only when the soil feels mainly dry in the top five inches. Avoid over-watering, since a frost-damaged tree is under tension and extra water around the roots can cause further tension and damage.
Iron gates add a industrial touch to lawns, and frequently have ornate details, like curves, spears, plants and shapes. Historically, these particulars were forged and shaped with hammer blows until versions were afterwards created and filled with molten metal. The workmanship required makes those gates more costly than wooden gates, but you can often see them at estate and yard sales.
An iron gate produces the entry to your home appear grand, should you use a small gate to get a walkway entry or a large gate to your driveway. Gates using spears add a Gothic feel to this entry, while a curved iron gate is a lot softer. If you can not manage an whole iron fence, then you can use the gate for the entry, with a hedge used as a living fence for your front yard. With no fence to flank the gate, then you will need to set fence posts to mount the gate. A formal brick walkway and well-manicured flower beds in the front yard coordinates nicely with all the industrial design of a front yard iron gate.
Instead of place the gate on your front yard for your neighbors to enjoy, you can use the gate as an entrance on your yard where you could view it from your outdoor entertainment area. The iron gate looks especially dramatic as an entrance for a garden surrounded by an iron fence or stone walls. An iron gate left open and dangling from its hinges makes the gate look like a long-forgotten feature of a garden, especially in case you allow plants to develop around the gate to soften the hard iron features.
An iron gate having an elaborate network of horizontal cross pieces, along with vertical bars, which works nicely as a trellis to train climbing plants. Iron can seem harsh, but even the most Gothic iron gates can be softened with delicate scaling vines, like sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) and wisteria (Wisteria spp.) . To achieve a more casual or informal look, just prop the gate against an exterior wall or fence. Should you want a more organized look, hang the gate on a wall using mounting brackets. With the assistance of a couple of iron stakes, it is possible to stand the trellis upright in a flower bed, surrounded by other garden plants, besides climbing vines.
The intricate details and careful craftsmanship that go into creating iron rhythm makes them works of art by themselves. If you want to accentuate the detail of this iron gate, then display the gate on its own as yard art. Black plastic zip ties make it easy to attach the gate to steel reinforcing bars, which work as stakes that you can push in the ground to hold the gate erect. A concrete birdbath or fountain helps accentuate the heavy iron. You may also use a iron gate to conceal an unattractive foundation, like a cinder block wall. Simply prop the gate against the wall to divert attention away from the blocks.
When choosing a countertop material, don’t forget about laminates. Laminate countertops are appealing, durable and leave a smaller dent in your remodeling budget than artificial or natural stone. For even larger savings, then combine your time and labor with the right tools and materials to build your own laminate countertops. It’s a satisfying do-it-yourself project that yields impressive results.
The process of building a laminate countertop begins with the substrate, or base. Plywood, medium-density fiberboard (MDF) and particleboard are all acceptable substrates, each with advantages and negatives. Plywood is strong and secure, but may have hidden flaws that threaten its structure, as well as surface issues that influence how well laminates adhere. MDF is a smooth, consistent material but not particularly water resistant, except for the more expensive exterior grades. While particleboard is the choice of most contractors and commercial manufacturers, it is of a special industrial or countertop grade, so make sure you use exactly the same kind should you go this route. No matter what the material, it is a good idea to seal any areas that may be exposed to humidity, such as above a fridge or under a sink.
Once the substrate is selected and cut to fit, plastic laminate is glued to the top. Thanks to improvements in production and plastics technologies, the higher-end laminates of today are available in various rich colors, thicknesses and textures, and the increasingly realistic look and feel of wood or stone. Countertop laminate most widely comes in 4-foot-by-8-foot sheets, although other sizes also are available, including strips cut to fit standard width edges.
The easiest kind of edging to get a DIY countertop is a square border, made by gluing strips of wood onto the faces of the substrate and trimming them to fit. You can also glue on a form of factory-formed border with profiles like those found on manufactured countertops. Another attractive option is to wrap the countertop in timber. Choose from a large selection of commercially available moldings, or use any type of wood you prefer to create your own custom profiles with a router.
Apart from accurate measuring and design tools, one must-have item for building laminate floors is really a router equipped with a laminate trimming bit. Other items are a jigsaw or circular saw to cut the substrate; a sharp utility knife for cutting and scoring laminate; a paintbrush and roller for applying contact adhesive; many wooden dowels to help place the laminate over the pasted surface; along with a specialty tool called a J reel to press the laminate back on the substrate to get a great bond. You will also need a level work space with loads of ventilation, and a helper or two.
Building your own laminate floors might appear daunting, but it is a manageable task when taken step by step. It’s a great idea to observe a few video tutorials first to get a sense of the procedure, especially if you’re relatively new to woodworking. Try the techniques and tools on a smaller project, such as a workbench or shelf. After you’ve sharpened your skills, and provided you take your time and pay attention to detail, you may give your kitchen a custom look in big savings.
Piles of dead leaves from your lawn are havens for burrowing pests, especially since the autumn and winter approach. Raking your lawn is an unavoidable chore that is tedious, but strategic usage of the landscape’s shape helps you get it done better. Use several raking tactics to make the project easier and create a functional use for your fallen leaves.
Many trees have a yard surrounding them, and you typically rake the leaves from the grass under the canopy. To create raking simpler, keep your yard trimmed to 3 or 2 inches so it has a constant, flat surface for raking. Lawns with thin or thick patches produce raking more challenging because leaves become stuck in thick grass regions and raking takes longer because you want to manipulate the tool during the whole uneven lawn. Maintaining your lawn at a healthy height provides a flatter surface for quicker raking once the leaves start falling.
If your lawn has a slope to it, then use the downhill advantage to pile the leaves at the hill’s base. Although dead leaves are lightweight, your raking movement moves a whole lot of leaves at exactly the same time, this leaf pile has some weight to it. As a result, your lawn slope and gravity help the leaves go into a neat pile. You can also use slightly windy days to your benefit. Follow the wind’s direction so it enables you to concentrate the leaves into a pile rather than fighting an upwind battle.
Dead leaves still have a lot of organic matter that is beneficial to bud when they decompose. Mowing some of the leaves to the grass adds nutrients to the soil while reducing the number of leaves you need to eliminate. If you still have plenty of leaves on the grass after mowing it in the yard, rake the surplus leaf material around nearby shrubs or other trees. The shredded leaves act as a mulch or you can till it into the soil to enhance it. This effortless approach to rake the leaves prevents the demand for large and heavy leaf piles you have to then transfer to a disposal bin.
Another easy way to rake leaves is to produce numerous piles. One leaf pile means you have to transfer a whole lot of leaves using the rake. Creating multiple piles decreases the need to transfer leaves completely across a yard. In addition, if a wind suddenly gusts, you might just need to rake one little stack into shape rather than one huge pile.
The sunset maple tree (Acer rubrum “Red Sunset”) is a cultivar of red maple prized because of its rapid development and brilliant fall foliage. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4b through 8b, the sunset maple thrives in both wet and dry conditions, and tolerates a wide array of soils. However, as a tall tree with a broad canopy spread and an extensive root system, sunset maples require plenty of open space to stay healthy and grow to their full potential.
The sunset maple typically rises to a height of 45 to 50 feet, and prefers full to partial sunlight. Therefore you should not plant sunset maples under power lines or other overhanging structures which will obstruct their vertical growth, or near tall buildings or other trees which may block their lighting in the south.
The sunset maple includes a spread of 25 to 40 feet. The tree’s dense canopy makes it popular as a shade tree in parks and yards, and as a street tree in places where sidewalks do not inhibit root development. However, for long term landscaping, do not plant sunset maples within 40 feet of different trees or structures, since this could stunt their canopy development.
Sunset maples can adapt to constrained spaces if regularly irrigated, but prefer open areas with ample soil space for root development. The tree’s root system can extend for as many as 80 feet, and often includes large surface roots which could upheave lawns or paving stones. Sunset maples which are prevented from developing adequate root systems might show signs of anxiety including dry or yellowing leaves, and might eventually die if unable to obtain sufficient nutrients and water.
In good circumstances, sunset maples can grow up to 24 inches per year. While a seedling begins small, it is going to expand quickly in both spread and height, and will soon come into battle with neighboring trees or structures if not given sufficient distance. Plan ahead to permit your sunset maple the space it has to obtain enough sunlight, nutrients and water to thrive for years to come.
Tender yet crisp ears of sweet corn may grow well in any backyard that receives all-day sunlight and at least three months of warm summer weather. Dwarf varieties work best in small backyards. Unlike standard corn, which may develop stalks 10 feet or taller, dwarf types generally only grow to about 4 feet tall, and also the same height of a determinate tomato plant. Kandy Korn and Golden Bantam varieties grow well in many garden gardens without taking up too much space. Sow corn outdoors after frost risk passes and the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Till the top 8 inches of dirt in a well-drained, full-sun bed. Scatter 2 inches of old compost over the bed and incorporate it using the tilled soil to assist fertility and dirt.
Mist the prepared bed with water until the top 3 inches are moist. Pull the handle of a hoe down the bed to create 1 1/2-inch deep planting furrows. Space the furrows 12 inches apart. In small spaces, plant corn in a number of rows in a little block, such as four rows at a 4-by-4-foot bed, because corn clustered at a block pollinates better than those in one row.
Sow the corn seed in the furrows, spacing seeds 4 inches apart. Cover the seeds with soil and water lightly. Continue to water once or twice per week, or as needed in order that the soil doesn’t dry completely. Corn typically germinates within 14 days.
Thin the corn seedlings as soon as they develop to a 4-inch height. Pinch off the surplus plants in order that the remaining plants are spaced about 12 inches apart in the row.
Water corn crops once per week, supplying about 1 inch of water at each irrigation. Put on the water close to the foundation of the plants and avoid overhead watering, which may impact ear formation.
Apply a high-nitrogen fertilizer when the corn plants reach 12 inches tall. Use the fertilizer after package program rates, which can fluctuate.
Harvest the corn when the tassels dry and turn brown, about three weeks after the tassels first kind. Peel back the corn husk and thrust on a kernel with your nail to check maturity. Corn is ready to pick when the kernel is soft enough to pierce and also the juice appears milky. Pull the ears down while twisting aggressively to eliminate them from the stalks.
Backsplashes in kitchen settings fill the gaps between the lower base cupboards and the wall cupboards that are over, at eye level. As a general rule, most wall cupboards are installed 18 inches off the top of the finish countertop surface, giving you an 18-inch spread of backsplash space. But custom splashes fluctuate in height. When it comes to selecting your backsplash tile, you must unite design aesthetics with fabric budget and realities to accomplish the best results for your precise backsplash.
A typical straight-lay backsplash runs complete tile off the top of the countertop with a cut against the underside of the wall cupboards. Full tiles are utilized in the outside edges, with bullnose wrap the greatest edge, and any vertical cuts have been made to the inside corners where they are visible and therefore are covered by items like a wax containers or kitchen utensils or appliances like a toaster or a blender. When purchasing stuff, use the measurements to arrange material as near possible to store cuts to a minimum, but also factor in items like light bars hanging under the bottom edge of the wall cupboards that hides sliver cuts; thus if you opt for a 16-inch tile for instance and only have a 2-inch cut, then it will never really be observable.
Another option if you’re dead-set on a particular kind of material that leaves you with sliver cuts if you install the tile on a typical straight lay would be to flip the entire thing on its side and install the backsplash on a diagonal. Normally, installers use a complete half-tile diagonal along the bottom edge of the countertop, with complete tiles between the halves, then make cuts as required to fit under the bottom edge of the upper cabinets. But checking layout beforehand remains important to see how you must center the backsplash vertically or if you will need to center things off of a central point, such as an inset mural over a cooker.
Large bodied tiles produce a more smooth look and feel for your backsplash. If you have an 18-inch splash, for instance, choose 18-inch tiles to fill out the space. Or you might have a 20-inch backsplash and find a 22-inch material from the design you like, and all you have to do is cut off the top edges of the tiles to fit them inside the backsplash. These are best used for installations where you don’t have light bars along with any cuts under the edge of the upper cabinets are clearly visible. To remove these cuts, you simply choose a tile that is suitable for the height of the one or hairline that needs to be trimmed slightly to give the appearance of complete tile.
If you prefer smaller tiles, then it is ideal to pick tiles that are installed with no small cuts going up against the wall cabinets. For instance, a roughly 18-inch distance accommodates four 4-inch three or shingles 6-inch pieces, though you might want to trim a little from the top edge. Or use 1- and 2-inch mosaic tiles that come in sheets or pebble tiles that also arrive in sheet formats that mimic 12-inch tiles in that they can be found in square mesh sheets.
You should always seal seams tiles to protect them against occasional sprayback and debris from cooking and cleaning. There is no actual limit in the kinds of tiles you may select from, because all could be sealed and sealed. Ceramic and ceramic tile are both man-made choices that require very little maintenance. Natural stone tiles like slate, marble, granite and travertine are other choices, even though they require routine cleaning and resealing to maintain the stone protected. They can be found in rough, honed (smoothed but not polished) and polished format. Furthermore, tiles created from sheet metal are also offered.
Struggling homeowners in California have a variety of foreclosure prevention plans available to them at the federal and state levels. All homeowners nationwide may qualify for several federally sponsored foreclosure options. Furthermore, California homeowners are able to make the most of California Housing Finance Agency (CalHFA) and Maintain Your Home California foreclosure prevention programs. California homeowners expecting to avoid foreclosure must choose the right foreclosure prevention plan for their specific circumstance.
The California Housing Finance Agency (CalHFA) is currently offering its CMP 2.0 loan adjustment program to eligible California homeowners. To qualify for CMP 2.0, California homeowners must have CalHFA-backed mortgages that are not actually owned by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac. For homeowners with eligible CalHFA-backed mortgages, the streamlined loan modification program provides loan forgiveness up to $40,000. CalHFA-modified mortgages can feature terms of around 40 years and interest rates as low as 2 percent.
Other foreclosure prevention plans made for California homeowners fall beneath the Keep Your Home California initiative. Section of the CalHFA Mortgage Assistance Corporation, Keep Your Home California delivers eligible California homeowners different foreclosure prevention and foreclosure alternative programs. Current California foreclosure prevention plans include unemployment mortgage assistance and loan adjustment. Furthermore, Maintain Your Home California features mortgage reinstatement assistance that makes it possible to extort mortgages going via actual foreclosure.
Besides state foreclosure prevention programs, California homeowners are able to take advantage of federally sponsored versions as well. Golden State homeowners qualify for CalHFA CMP 2.0 mortgage adjustment might be eligible for the Federal government’s Home Affordable Damp Program (HAMP). In addition, eligible California homeowners might be able to use the Home Affordable Foreclosure Alternatives (HAFA) program. HAFA provides short-sale and deed-in-lieu of foreclosure plans to homeowners who have mortgages owned by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac.
California homeowners trying hard to avoid foreclosure must contact their lenders at their first opportunity. Mortgage counseling in California is offered by HUD-approved counselors, as well as counselors approved by the nation itself. For homeowners who have mortgages owned by private lenders, obtaining Preserve Your Home California foreclosure prevention plans can make sense. Furthermore, homeowners with personal lender mortgages may find successful foreclosure prevention assistance during Hope Now, an alliance sponsored by particular private lenders.
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